By TastingTable | Alicia Erickson
Excerpt (read the complete article here):
Since the 1990 establishment of November as Native American Heritage Month in the U.S., recognition of Indigenous culture is growing. Amid this renaissance, Indigenous communities are reconnecting to culinary traditions and ingredients that originated in North America. Some are well-recognized foods like corn, berries, squashes, and wild rice, while others are less familiar.
Owamni
A neon sign reading “You are on Native land” greets guests when entering Owamni, the restaurant operated by Oglala Lakota Sioux chef Sean Sherman, which overlooks the Owámniyomni waterfalls in Minneapolis. Sherman has been making waves in the Native food movement long before he opened Owamni in 2021. At Owamni, food is education. Central to this endeavor is Sherman’s commitment to using pre-colonial ingredients. Wheat flour, dairy products, and cane sugar do not appear in dishes here. Native grains and sweeteners like maple syrup are used instead.
The menu changes with each season, reflecting the traditional eating patterns of Indigenous communities with livelihoods deeply tied to nature. The fall menu features dishes like turkey tacos topped with cranberries, tomato-walnut soup, and smoked rack of elk served over pumpkin-carrot puree. While Americans might be more accustomed to eating meats like beef, chicken, and pork, game meats like elk and bison were common proteins among Indigenous communities, and they are commonly served at Native restaurants like Owamni. Dining here is an excellent opportunity to learn everything you need to know about elk meat, and why you may want to make it a more common part of your diet.
Each detail at Owamni is impeccably executed, down to the drink menu. Teas and non-alcoholic cocktails blend Native shrubs and herbs, including rose hip, fireweed, and dandelion root. The restaurant also features a wine list highlighting offerings produced by Native vintners.
